Friday, 26 June 2009
Michael, the latest Diana? Err, I don't think so...
One of my recent posts described the unease I feel, since the child sex abuse allegations made against him, if I happen to watch one of his videos. I needn’t have worried. Since the news of his death it has become clear that the overwhelming majority of those contacting bodies such as the BBC to express their opinions are more interested in his creativity than in whether he was a preferential paedophile.
He was cleared of the allegations and, in his defence, he had a very unusual, troubled childhood and was milked for his talent, whatever the psychological cost to him. I expect columns will be written about the form his strangeness took. Body Dysmorphic Disorder perhaps (think of the surgery he had on his face). I have found myself thinking of the reclusive Howard Hughes who probably had Obsessive Compulsive Disorder and the people who took advantage of it to become his best mates.
I suspect that Jackson was, in his mind, stuck at ten years old and this probably did play a part in his need to be in the presence of younger people. The problem is that anyone else less marketable with this mindset would have been told very firmly by those around them that this would not do but there was too much to be gained by humouring him. He was clearly vulnerable if not actually predatory and I feel that, if anything untoward did take place, those who enabled it are as responsible as he might have been.
There is no doubt that Jackson had at least one or two in his circle who would cater to his every whim in order to skim off some of the wealth he generated. They must be rubbing their hands together at the royalties that are rolling in at this very moment as a result of the many tribute shows being broadcast to mark his death. I was astonished that BBC Radio 4’s “Today” programme felt the need to play exerts of a number of Jackson tracks. It won’t make up for the billions they would have made had he completed the final world tour he was rehearsing for.
The moment I heard the news I felt certain that someone somewhere would allege that he is now in hiding, having faked his own death. Read the message boards across the web and you’ll see that this is already happening. I predict that someone will be selling photos of the corpse before very long. For a profit of course. The circus rolls on.
There have been a number of references to the vast amount if money that he donated to charities and while that is to his credit it I would have thought more of him in this aspect if he had paid his own bills first. As it is he died in considerable debt and I have no doubt that the three children that he somehow produced (please, no details) will suffer for this. I expect that they are being watched like hawks to see if talent is genetically transferred.
Alas, the fuss over Jackson has overshadowed the news of the death of the lovely Farrah Fawcett. I wasn’t really a fan of “Charlie’s Angels” but she was such a star that she was everywhere. My neighbour’s teenage son, Jameel, was a Farrah fan and the image of her in a clingy, revealing top, taped to the wall in his room will always stay with me. She epitomised the ‘70’s beauty and millions must have wanted to look just like her. How sad that a surgically deformed man of dubious reputation has taken some of the remaining glory that she should have been entitled to. Never mind Farrah, you’ll always be fabulous babe.
Tuesday, 23 June 2009
The Goldfish Liberation Front

The Attached One had a nasty shock on Sunday morning when he went to feed the goldfish. Vanessa, the pretty one with the gauzy tail, had died during the night. No obvious reason, she had seemed perfectly healthy and was buried in the garden with some ceremony. It left us feeling very sad that she did not get the chance to live in the bigger tank that we were planning to buy for her and her friend Dennis.
The care that we have taken over the two years that Vanessa and Dennis have been with us, to make sure that they have been happy, is in complete contrast to the treatment of the goldfish that are sold every year by an Iranian grocer in west London. In March those passing his shop are treated to a display of all the items needed for the celebration of Nowruz, the Zarathustrian or Persian New Year. These include pots of fragrant hyacinth and sprouted wheat, but it is the glitter and flash amongst them of many small goldfish in tiny bowls of water that draws customers to the shop.
These are very popular with the Iranian expats, who can be seen peering at the pairs of young goldfish in their ornate bowls as they carry them home. What they do not realise is that these fish are being kept in a volume of water that is a tenth of the amount they actually require and that the traditional bowl denies the fish the surface area necessary to give them the oxygen they need to survive. It’s a bit like shutting a toddler into a cupboard where it can only turn round on the spot and putting a plastic bag over its head so that it can’t breathe properly.
I have been told by an RSPCA inspector that they have tried to stop this practice as the fish sit in these tiny bowls until they are sold and who knows what happens to them after Nowruz. I suspect the sewers of West Ealing are alive with goldfish by the end of April, unless of course there are Iranian households with substantial fish tanks. In which case why do they have to buy more each year? The saddest thing about this practice is that goldfish can live for as long as forty years but these die when they are only a few months old.
Most of the Iranians who patronise this shop are likely to be exiles who fled their country after the revolution in 1979. Even so, I always think of those delicate goldfish in their tiny suffocating bowls as a metaphor for the young people of Iran, suffocated by a regime that criminalises homosexuality and executes teenage girls who are themselves victims of rape and abuse. The death of Neda Soltani will make her a symbol of the youth of Iran and their desire to live in a modern democratic environment, but long before this the situation of young Iranian women has been a matter of concern to human rights activists worldwide.
Atefeh Sahaaleh was a sixteen year old girl with mental health problems who was the victim of repeated rape by a former member of the Revolutionary Guard. When she was five years old her mother was killed in a car accident and this drove her father to drug addiction. She was obliged to care for her very elderly grandparents who repaid her by ignoring her. She would wander the streets of her town, prey for older men who would take advantage of her. The penalty for having sex with an unmarried man in Iran is one hundred lashes. She was given this punishment on three separate occasions.
Eventually she was arrested after an unsigned petition describing her as a “bad influence” was presented to the local authorities, asking that action be taken against her. Under torture she confessed to having a sexual relationship with a married man, in other words, he raped her a number of times. Atefeh’s reaction to the sentence of death passed on her led the judge, Haji Rezai, to make a supreme effort to make sure that the sentence was carried out. Documents showed her age as twenty two even though her family can prove that she was sixteen at the time. Rezai himself placed the noose around her neck and it was later discovered that he had been responsible for torturing her. Her family cannot even visit her grave to mourn her as her body was stolen from it within hours of her death.
Young men suffer equally in Iran. In 2005 Mahmoud Asgari and Ayaz Marhoni were executed, convicted of the rape of a thirteen year old boy, although it has been alleged that they died because they were homosexual and that the “rape“ was a consensual act. Their case gained notoriety when photographs taken just before their deaths were published on the internet. Mahmoud was sixteen and Ayaz eighteen. In the UK we worry that our young men are too rowdy, too interested in drugs, too lazy, too inclined to wear hooded tops. What must it be like to be young in a country where you risk a public lashing for engaging in the kind of activity that we regard as part of becoming an adult? How much harder must it be if you are gay?
I have never been to Iran but the knowledge I have of it suggests that it is a place of contrasts. A country where there is torture and executions are carried out but with a long history of creativity. The ceramic and textile art of Iran has attracted and inspired collectors and designers for centuries. Women are obliged to cover their hair in public yet there are female reporters and sportswomen. Homosexuality is banned but Iranian surgeons carry out corrective operations on transgender people every year. Iran’s government has a reputation for cruelty and repression yet its people are some of the kindest and most courteous that I have ever met.
Cruelty and beauty. Goldfish and hyacinths. I hope that the ordinary people of Iran get the democracy that they long for and I hope that shopkeeper sticks to selling flowers next New Year.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/5217424.stm
Monday, 22 June 2009
This means war
I do not cycle. This may be because I grew up in a cobbled mews, the bumpiness put me off although other children living there had bicycles. My lack of cycling experience has not influenced what I am about to say, in fact I have largely ignored bicycles and cyclists. Until now.
My three mile walk home from work between 8pm and 9pm on weekday evenings has brought me into contact with that lower form of life known as the pavement cyclist. I am expected to get out of the way of idiots who, whether they are clad in the most up to date dayglo lycra or ninja black, seem determined to kill me. Trouble is, by that time of day, I am usually too tired to move quickly enough so have to rely on their seeing me in time to stop. On more than one occasion this has been inches away from me.
To be fair, some of them have gone to the effort of attaching what could be referred to as a “bell” to their killing machine but these are usually barely audible and, from my perspective, pointless. The only warning I get is a brief tinkle seconds before one of these morons barrels past me. Sometimes they shout at me before they do this. They rarely shout “thank you” afterwards. The clear message is that they have the right of way and I am a bloody nuisance.
I know that my words will be met with irritation by those who cycle responsibly, the ones who cycle in the road, wearing high visibility arm bands/helmets/flashing lights and actually stop at lights rather than whipping round to the crossing and suddenly becoming a pedestrian. Well, none of you seem to cycle where I walk. So if you expect me to greet with excitement the news that Sky Sports has teamed up with British Cycling to organise “Skyrides” around the UK you will be sorely disappointed. It turns out that the Mayor of London will be leading a Mini Skyride to West London. Oh joy. Boris (who got into trouble for breaking the rules on his way into work on his bike) wants to encourage people to cycle around in large groups, free from the fear of being run down by cars and buses. How about enforcing the law when it comes to cycling on the pavement, Boris? So that I can walk around free from the fear of being scythed down by one of these fools?
The latest incident was on Thursday. I was walking round a blind corner when of these helmeted twits came screeching to a halt right in front of me. I did quite a lot of swearing as he swerved past me and then proceeded to cut straight across a main road, all this in the presence of a police car. I was under the impression that a cyclist could be fined £200 for this kind of offence. The Highway Code says:
145
You MUST NOT drive on or over a pavement, footpath or bridleway except to gain lawful access to property, or in the case of an emergency.
[Laws HA 1835 sect 72 & RTA 1988 sect 34]
Emergencies in most of these cases would appear to be getting home in time for dinner/the football match/a hot date.
I bet this kind of thing would stop if every cyclist was expected to wear an identification number as well as high visibility kit. Some of the people who have almost run into me have been wearing dark clothes and have no lights on their bicycles at night. I’ve seen them swerve on and off pavements, in and out of traffic. Having waited for the lights to change, like a good responsible pedestrian, I was almost run down by a man who thought the traffic lights didn’t apply to him and didn’t even see me. I understand that cyclists find car drivers aggressive and that they are often the victim of accidents themselves (I’ve seen the bloodstains) but I don’t think that this gives them the right to take over pavements. This happens even where there are cycle lanes. The Mayor wants to ensure that there is a network of them across London. Terrific. And are you going to ensure that they are used, Boris? Unlikely.
It has got to the stage where I am fairly sure that one of these days I will be killed or seriously injured by one of these selfish, irresponsible arseholes. Cyclists need to be registered and they need to be regulated. I want to be able to identify the person who has almost killed me. I think that someone who causes injury or death by riding their bicycle should not only be fined but imprisoned and banned from using one ever again. Why should elderly or disabled people be put off walking our streets because they have been frightened by an incident like this?
Please consider signing the petitions to which I have added links.
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/7498562.stm
www.livingstreets.org.uk/news_and_info/pb9_pavement_cycling.php
petitions.number10.gov.uk/dangerouscycling/
petitions.number10.gov.uk/IDCyclists/
petitions.number10.gov.uk/NightBikes/
petitions.number10.gov.uk/canal-no-bikes/
Wednesday, 17 June 2009
Fixing the fixers
Almost. It always take a while for my brain to work out what I can see before me in these situations. It seems that a small black car had pulled out from the car park of the neighbouring building when another, almost identical small black car had swerved to avoid it and had run into a lamp post on my side of the road. By the time I got to the window the first car was in the middle of the road pointing in the opposite direction to the other.
There is a fire station a few yards from where this happened and several firemen were on the scene within seconds. Within minutes two fire engines were blocking the traffic off in one lane while police from a station that is also close by directed it around the damaged cars. The driver of the second car was injured badly enough for it to take half an hour for him to be removed from the vehicle to the waiting ambulance.
This was all dealt with and cleared up within an hour. The two damaged cars were deposited, for the time being, in the car park next door. Sand was spread across the oil spill by the lamppost. Broken bits of car were swept up. What struck me was that I had seen all three emergency services acting in a calm and coordinated manner, comforting uninjured passengers, shepherding pedestrians out of the way, making things safe.
From the fifth floor I had a clear view and felt rather detached after the initial shock, as if I was watching a play. For those directly involved, who had to see and hear the shock and pain close up it must have been very different. It is easy to forget that these men and women often attend situations like this daily, even hourly, and are expected to take it in their stride. The rest of us can walk away and forget about it but it does not surprise me that some in the police, fire and ambulance services crack under the strain or behave in a way that doesn‘t meet our expectations.
Hours before the traffic accident I had watched a video recorded in Nottingham of police officers trying to handcuff a man. A cab driver had begun recording the event because one of the officers had repeatedly tazered the individual even though he was already on the ground and vulnerable. He was simply trying to avoid having his hands cuffed. He was also punched in the head a number of times. This went on in front of a crowd of people who were clearly angry about what was happening but the police concerned carried on regardless of their comments. I suspect that they were unaware of the fact that this was being recorded (which seems a bit naïve these days) and would have stopped it if they had known.
It has raised questions about the use of tazers which were regarded as a non lethal option for subduing potentially dangerous suspects, better than guns. I am more interested in why someone is prepared to obviously and repeatedly inflict pain in a way that seems unnecessary to most of us. Have those involved become so hardened by what they have seen and experienced that they do this sort of thing without thinking twice about it? Did any of them question for a moment what their colleagues were doing and consider stopping them? Was it just the end of a long and difficult shift?
Personally I feel that we expect rather too much of our emergency services. We are not there when a drunk vomits in the van that is carrying him to the police station, we aren’t the ones who have to clean it out. Ambulance personnel increasingly face attacks when they attend a situation and firemen go home to their families and act as if nothing has happened, having seen the consequences of a fire. For the police in particular there are no second chances if they get it wrong.
I am not excusing the behaviour of the police in that video and I have concerns about the way some have dealt with demonstrators over the years. It worries me that they are being deliberately wound up to be more aggressive ahead of these events by some of those responsible for managing them. However I believe that we should become as understanding and respectful towards them as we are now expected to be towards military personnel. It is clear that there is a link between the stress of serving in a war zone and Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. We are often shielded from the war zones that some places in our country have become and I think that once the dust of this most recent example of police brutality has settled, we need to look at how we are dealing with the people who clean up the mess so that we don’t have to.
Monday, 15 June 2009
There's no place like home
Thus far in my life I have been lucky in that I have not had to make those decisions. I live in a country that has not faced invasion for more than sixty years and, in spite of certain recent events, could still be regarded as a democracy. I don’t have to bribe a councillor to raise an issue of local concern and the police usually turn up when I need them. There is likely to be someone out there to help if I fall on hard times. If I get pregnant the system should kick in to make sure that my child is fed, clothed and housed adequately, if not by me then by the state. Most of the time I take all this for granted.
A couple of things have reminded me that I am unbelievably lucky. One was the news that Madonna had been allowed to adopt a second Malawian child. The other was that Amnesty International has launched the “Demand Dignity” campaign to raise awareness of poverty and the impact it has on human rights. The term that stood out to me when reading about it was “absolute poverty” - according to the world bank that describes the condition of 1.3 billion people. Absolute poverty in 2009. Poverty means no clean water, no adequate sewage, no education, no healthcare, no voice.
It also means no certainty that the ramshackle roof over your head will still be there tomorrow. In the UK I can be certain that, should anyone find that they have the right to turn me out of my home, for whatever reason, I will at least have the chance of appeal and some notice of when I will be expected to leave. This is not the case in places like Kenya’s Deep Sea settlement where private companies are gaining land for development by illegally evicting people who have nowhere else to go. The developers are being supported by the authorities and police so those who had little to begin with are being forced to leave in the middle of the night taking with them only what they can carry. Bulldozers are literally showing up without any warning.
The campaign will also be raising awareness of corporate responsibility and the profound impact business can have on impoverished communities. They are usually powerless to defend themselves when their home is targeted by those with an agenda that does not have their best interests at heart. Native people in Canada have been directly and very badly affected by the construction of a gas plant in their area. No one in a wealthy city would tolerate a birth rate where 19 out of 21 babies were still born, yet this is what they have had to endure as a result of this imposition on what they regard as their ancestral land.
Women and children bear the brunt of this situation and the third focus of the campaign is on maternal mortality. Where I live it is expected that a pregnant woman will put her feet up and be cared for by those around her. She becomes as precious as the child she is carrying. In poor communities ease is not an option for expectant women. The need to continue working, often quite strenuously, creates a greater risk to the unborn child and mother. Add to that the lack of good antenatal and postnatal healthcare and you have the answer to why so many women who are considered to be in a condition of “absolute poverty” die as a result of becoming pregnant.
This brings me to Madonna and her adoption of Mercy, whose biological mother died during childbirth. Try for one moment to forget about the fuss surrounding what should be a private matter between an adopter and those officials concerned in assessing that person’s right to adopt a particular child. Try instead to wonder what it must be like to be born in poverty in a country where your life expectancy is 40 and where you are likely to be orphaned by AIDs. Someone with a lot of money takes an interest in your country and offers to do something about healthcare, education and child care. What would you do if you were a Malawian? If you had any sense you would put your hand up and say “Yes please!”
In my opinion too many people are ready to point a finger at Madonna and say that she has bought this child without caring in the slightest about the others that are left behind in those orphanages. That she has set up her charity, Raising Malawi, as a vehicle for the Kabbalah sect that she follows. That those who run the Kabbalah Centre in the US are looking for a country to take over.
Mmmm. Well, if they are planning to take over Malawi and run it they aren’t particularly good at keeping it a secret. I think someone will notice if that democratic country suddenly becomes a dictatorship run by a particularly pale blonde woman with an American accent. I realise that she sometimes acts as “She Who Must Be Obeyed “ but even she realises that there are limits. For centuries Christians have imposed their religion on hapless orphans throughout Africa, not always kindly, so why is the particular religion an issue?
I had felt for some time that Africa needed Madonna and even though I have some doubts about the Kabbalah Centre I have none about her decision to promote a religion other than Christianity. I believe that Raising Malawi is a genuine attempt on the part of a well informed individual, who has campaigned on the AIDs issue for years, to do something concrete and positive about it. I feel that Madonna is taking seriously the concept of “ubuntu”, a philosophy promoted by Mandela and Tutu. Above all I think that a little girl is going to grow up surrounded by people who genuinely love her and have her best interests at heart. Madonna may not turn out to be the perfect mum but she is doing her best in the only way she knows how.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ubuntu_(philosophy)
Wednesday, 10 June 2009
Through a glass, darkly, and whilst wearing dark glasses
Eric Gill was responsible for monuments, sculptures and plaques all over the country, the work of almost forty years. Much of his work is to be found in churches and he had quite a lot to say about man’s relationship with God. Some may wonder if God has had quite a lot to say to him, if there is an afterlife. As far as I know no one has asked that his work be destroyed or removed, and typefaces that he designed are still in use. Does this mean that the work of a self confessed abuser can be regarded as absolutely separate from the crimes that he has committed? Should I feel bad for liking the work of Eric Gill?
I find it difficult to sit through a Michael Jackson video, even though he was found not guilty on all charges of sexually abusing children in 2005. I wonder how many people in his entourage breathed a sigh of relief when that happened, not because they were concerned about him or believed in his innocence but because it meant that there was nothing to stop his music being played by the respectable and therefore royalties would still roll in. I’m no fan of his later stuff, but if “Don’t stop ‘Til You Get Enough” comes on I’ll watch it, feeling queasy and guilty all the way through it.
When it comes to Gary Glitter that opportunity never arises. His former backing band are till touring but I doubt if he has made much money from royalties lately. I loved Gary Glitter’s music when I was a kid and when the charges against him were first made public I couldn’t believe it. I suppose that by not buying his albums his former fans are punishing him in the only way they can. I suspect this means that the Glitter Band can’t use any material that he wrote and have to come up with their own songs. If I came across an old LP in a charity shop I might even consider buying it (not that I have the equipment to play it on any more) but I probably wouldn’t show it to anyone.
There is just something about a charge of child abuse that leaves a stain that cannot be erased or ignored. It isn’t like any other crime, partly because those who commit this kind of offence tend to keep on doing it or trying to. You can’t help feeling that even when most offenders of this nature are caught out they really don’t believe that they’ve done anything wrong. Society can tolerate a murderer who has done his or her time being amongst them but rarely a proven paedophile. The strange thing is that “Alice In Wonderland” is still a best seller when it must be obvious to anyone with functioning brain cells that its creator, Lewis Carroll (Charles Dodgson), had an unhealthy interest in photographing little girls. There is no evidence that he took his attentions towards his models any further but I am sure that if Dodgson was alive today he would have taken advantage of the internet in the same way that many paedophiles have.
That looking is considered to be as bad as touching means that the career of an actor like Chris Langham is probably over. He was one of the main characters in “The Thick Of It”, a very popular TV satire of the Blair Government, but since his conviction for downloading child pornography he has not been seen in anything other than vehicles clearly meant to rehabilitate his career. In Langham’s case the images in question went quite a lot further than small girls in tastefully arranged drapery. They included video clips of the most violent kind and extreme kind. The impact on his colleagues must have been devastating. To find that someone who you may have introduced your own children to has tastes of this kind must have been shattering, knowing that your very successful television career may now depend on the amount of distance you can put between him and your next great script must have been almost as unnerving.
I still don’t know how I feel about this. I am thinking of buying a DVD of “The Thick Of It”, even though it features Langham. That Glitter LP might turn up. If it does I’ll keep the volume down.
Tuesday, 9 June 2009
A bit pork and cheese

I’m one half foreign and that foreign is Portuguese. It is not that obvious, diluted by the Scots and Ulster on my father’s side and, of course, by the English culture that has surrounded me since birth (if London’s culture can be described as English). It took centuries of poverty and malnourishment to refine my typically short Portuguese body and I have brown eyes and hair.
If you have a foreign parent it is likely that somewhere in the family home there will be some reminder of their origin. In our house every ornament stood on an embroidered doily, there were plates and dishes painted in traditional Portuguese styles and we had the obligatory brightly coloured ceramic cockerel. My mother and her sister worked and lived close by so I heard the language everyday and there was a lot of contact with the members of her family who lived in London. One of my cousins always put on records of traditional music and danced to them. This mainly consisted of swinging to the right and then to the left and it is good to know that others are maintaining this tradition. In Australia. I swear it all sounds like this. Jingle jingle boom.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=g36oefvywtk
Everything my mother cooked, even if it was supposed to be a British dish, tended to be a bit Portuguese which rather annoyed my father. I think she regarded the indigenous cuisine as lacking in flavour. I grew up eating the home cured meat that was brought over from her village, smuggled through customs in suitcases. Sal picao was a favourite, a sausage that was sliced very thinly and eaten with bread. The chewy slices were a dark amber and garnet colour when held up to the light. Most school friends wrinkled their noses when offered it but some took the risk and found that they liked it. The food that had helped my ancestors to survive hungry winters was regarded as a delicacy in the UK.

On special occasions we ate bacalhau, salted cod fish cooked with finely chipped, fried potatoes, scraps of fried egg and olives. If most of the British visitors to the house had seen the cod soaking in buckets of water for days before being cooked they might also have wrinkled their noses, but once it was on their plates it disappeared fairly quickly. Cod was also used to make fish cakes which could be eaten hot or cold. My mother always made a lot of them but there never seemed to be enough.
Caldo verde, a soup made with shredded dark greens, was a challenge. I was never able to eat it without getting my chin slapped by hot potatoey cabbage. Summer meant green bean salad, the beans warm from the pan and thinly sliced onions in an oil and vinegar dressing served with hard boiled eggs. Puddings and desserts usually involved a lot of work so they didn’t come along that often but when they did the smell of cinnamon filled the house.
We didn’t have much to do with the Portuguese community apart from attending occasional events. I think my mother wanted to get more involved but it wasn’t something that interested my father. I wasn’t even expected to attend Portuguese school which seemed to be mandatory for the others of my age from that background. I wouldn’t have managed it and I think common sense was sacrificed to national pride by some Portuguese parents.
The other thing that set us apart was that we didn’t spend six weeks every summer on holiday over there. A great many of my mother’s contemporaries came over in the 1960’s and 1970’s to work hard and earn money, sacrificing much to save up enough to build a dream home to retire to in Portugal. Almost everyone we knew from that community lived in accommodation that came with a housekeeping job, which meant that quite a few people lived in ugly basements with exposed pipe work and were grateful for it.
Looking back, it is hard to believe that such a large population of very foreign people could live in London without being too obvious. I think the reason was that they just kept their heads down and got on with it, looking ahead to a time when they wouldn’t have to be here. Things began to change when some began to buy houses in the suburbs, but even then the plan was still to go home. I knew several people whose parents lived in the UK for decades but never learnt to speak more than a few words of English. At the time there was no need to and the truth was that many could not read in their own language. Education was not a priority in Salazar’s Portugal. Clever people were trouble.

We did visit my mother’s home occasionally. I went from being slightly foreign in the place I was born to being very foreign somewhere else. My grandmother was the typical little old lady in black and I really do remember her with affection. The whole place was so different from London. There was no flushing toilet, you parked your backside on a wooden seat and whatever you produced was composted. How green is that? My cousin used oxen to draw along a piece of agricultural equipment I had seen pictures of in a book on medieval history and I spent an afternoon watching him irrigate a field by using metal plates that he sliced into the ground, cutting off one channel then another, allowing the river water to run between rows of potatoes. I though they were covered in Portuguese ladybirds but they were actually Colorado beetles. I remember the smell of wood smoke, being taken to see some piglets and lots of sticky car rides as my father took advantage of all that history.
We visited every castle and church in the area and then went even further. We saw Alcobaca on a particularly hot day and I remember stepping from burning sunlight into the chill of the shade. The carved stonework looked like lace. My absolute favourite was a castle that had shallow steps wide enough for horses to be taken up them during a siege. I ended up with all the usual souvenirs, a boat and a doll with lots of petticoats from Nazare, hand embroidered aprons and earrings. I had my ears pierced, whether I liked it or not, by having a sterilised needle pushed through my lobes at around the age of three. This is when they discovered just how many rude Portuguese words I had picked up.

Forty years later I’ve forgotten them, along with most of the Portuguese I knew. I don’t regret it but I always mean to brush it up. When I looked around the house for things to photograph I found that there weren’t that many. I am far more English these days. Amongst the good things that I have gained from being a bit pork and cheese are a taste for embroidery and bean salads. I cry when I listen to Amalia Rodrigues even though I don’t understand most of what she is singing about. I have an insight into what it is like for those who come here from somewhere very different to earn what they think is a decent wage. I hope I am just that little bit more interesting because of it.
www.freguesiasdeportugal.com/distritoviana/09/portuzelo/fotos.htm

